MEET THE CHEF: Mark Birchall
MEET THE CHEF: Mark Birchall, Chef Patron at Moor Hall in Aughton, Lancashire
Marking a special birthday at the three Michelin starred Moor Hall, food and wine writer Ange Seddon caught up with one of Britain's culinary masters
Looking across the industry today, what chefs shape and inspire your philosophy at Moor Hall?
For me, inspiration comes much more from the people around me. James Lovatt has been with me since day one; George Martin, our Head Chef, and the rest of the kitchen team are constantly bringing new ideas and different perspectives to the table. We work very collaboratively, and that exchange of ideas is a big part of how the food at Moor Hall continues to evolve.
As Chef Patron, how much time do you spend in the kitchen these days?
I’m in the kitchen every day, for every service. There are occasional industry events or commitments that might take me away, but that’s why having such a strong team around me is so important. They know exactly what we’re trying to achieve and can run the kitchen to the same standard whether I’m there or not.
What’s your favourite dish to create from your current menu and what’s proving most popular with diners?
Lobster with tomatoes – on both counts. It’s probably my favourite dish on the menu at the moment, and it’s also proving incredibly popular with our guests. It’s a dish that really reflects how we like to cook at Moor Hall – taking exceptional produce and letting the quality of the ingredients speak for themselves.
Which foods are your guilty pleasures?
M&S picky bits - you cannot go wrong!
If you could prepare a meal for anyone, who would it be and what would you make?
It would have to be the Roux brothers. Their influence on British gastronomy and the industry has been incredible, and they’ve inspired generations of chefs, myself included. As for what I’d cook, I’d keep it true to what we do at Moor Hall – something led by the best produce available from the gardens and our suppliers at that moment. I think I’d feel the pressure with those two at the table!
Aughton has five Michelin stars within a half-mile radius, far surpassing neighbouring cities (Manchester only has two and Liverpool and Chester have none). What gives this small pocket of Lancashire its magic?
I think it’s quite remarkable for such a small village. There’s a real concentration of people here who are passionate about food, hospitality and doing things to a very high standard, and I think that naturally pushes everyone forward.When we opened Moor Hall, we weren’t thinking about creating a ‘food destination’ – we just wanted to build something special here. To now have this level of dining within such a small area is fantastic for Aughton and for Lancashire as a whole. It gives people another reason to travel to this part of the country and see what the North West has to offer.
You are now a judge for the Master of Culinary Arts and the Roux Scholarship Awards. Judging the best of the best. What advice would you give to a young chef just starting out?
Work hard, stay curious and be patient. There are no shortcuts in this industry. Learn the fundamentals properly, listen to the people around you and never think you know everything – you can always learn something from someone.
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