Spotlight on... Aven Restaurant, Preston
Ange Seddon visited Aven Restaurant in Preston to try the best for seasonal tasting menus
We were invited to try the seasonal tasting menu at the recently opened Aven Restaurant in Preston. There wasnโt a single dish that underwhelmed. I ooohโd and mmmโd at each course, with a high count of โthatโs amazing!โ thrown in.
The consommรฉ and the tomato tart to begin our menu may have been small, but the flavours were mighty. โHumble ingredients elevatedโ, was a phrase that was frequently uttered. For the next two courses, we were encouraged to eat with our fingers (warm towels to help the clean up were provided, a lovely touch). Crumpet with mushroom parfait followed by hash browns and a smoked beef tartare. Both dishes were rich in umami and luscious. The beef and hash browns having all the flavours of a steak dinner with the best chips.
We then had bread which had been made using spent grains that had previously been used in beer production (nothing wasted here) served with a cultured butter and smoked maldon sea salt. I tell you, it was stunning. If they take such care and attention with the bread and butter, you just know the skill and love that has gone into each and every other dish.
The Jersey royal, smoked eel and chicken dish may sound plain, but every spoonful revealed a myriad of different textures and comforting flavours. This was served with a Georgian orange wine, a first for me. The pairing changed the wine from having sherry like qualities when tasted alone, to coming alive with freshness when tasted with the food.
The monkfish tail and cheek were two standouts, both cooked in different ways. The roasted tail was a soft as butter and the buttermilk fried cheek was very much like a fancy version of a certain fried poultry establishment, only a lot more elegant and delicious. Served with a Viognier and Marsanne blend from Victoria, Australia. A beautiful pairing once again balancing the richness of the dish with bright acidity.
Next came the lamb, always a winner, but my favourite part was the slow cooked lamb belly, an underused cut treated with such respect to bring out the rich flavour. I would have channelled my inner Oliver and asked โPlease sir, can I have some moreโ, but I needed to save room for the dessert courses. Both of which were, not only works of art, but refreshing and decadent at the same time. A special mention is needed for the โapple cracklingโ, the peel of the apple dried and caramelised to just the right side of bitterness, all washed down with a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc from Casablanca Valley in Chile, โHereโs looking at you, kid!โ
We opted to include the cheese course which was a pillow-soft, sheepโs milk cheese from Cartmel, served with sourdough crackers, brioche, truffle honey and caramelised onion chutney. One word, delightful.
You would think Iโd be stuffed, but Iโm no quitter, so our final treats were chicory and caramelised white chocolate fudge and a black trompette madeleine. Mushroom on cake? Donโt knock it til youโve tried it.
Every course was wonderful, and carefully prepared and presented yet with the warmest and friendliest of greetings and surroundings. Dinner is served Wednesday to Saturday and lunch from Thursday to Saturday (with a slightly shorter tasting menu). This place is worth the trip, I guarantee you wonโt be disappointed, or leave hungry.
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