WORDS: Ange Seddon

There is a mantra doing the rounds in the wine world encouraging us to ‘Drink less, but drink better’, and while this is a great goal to have, it’s not always that easy to discern what is classed as better when there is so much to choose from. Looking at a wine list in a restaurant can be overwhelming sometimes, so we go to our tried and trusted favourites, or just choose the second cheapest. It’s the same standing in the wine aisle of the supermarket. I’m hoping that each month, we can learn a little more about the different wines that are available, about the different varieties, regions and history (I’m learning too, this world of wine is huge and constantly evolving).

Wine drinking is on the decline globally; lots of newcomers are preferring to try craft ales or spirits. Also, the market is being flooded with no and low alcohol alternatives. While the beer and spirits are enjoying considerable success and are decent, I’m yet to find a wine-like drink that I could hand-on-heart recommend. The last one I tried tasted like watered-down balsamic vinegar. Younger drinkers are choosing to spend a little more to get more natural wines, as they care about their wines having fewer additives, more sustainable practices, ethical production and transparency. It’s a whole side of this vast and surprising subject that is worth further exploration. Wine’s complexity will always be part of its appeal. Then there are ‘celebrity wines’ – I shouldn’t criticise them, but I will. While they may encourage their fans to give wine a try, some are decidedly average and honestly not worth the units. I’m not sure I will be rushing to buy anything from the Trump Winery in Virginia, hopefully they will save it for consumption in that big old house at the end of Pennsylvania Avenue.

Speaking of the so-called ‘Land of the Free’, they are about to make things a whole lot more expensive for European wine exporters with the threat of enormous tariffs. That and the ridiculously complicated duty system recently implemented by our own government, will make the years ahead more difficult for those trying to export wines out of Europe.  

What can we do? Let’s learn a bit more, be braver in our choices. You never know, you could discover a new favourite along the way. Drink less, but drink better.

What To Drink This Month

So, let’s talk Lambrusco…*the screeching of brakes*, ‘Hang on Ange, you said drink better? What are you lying for?’ Bear with me, please. I’ve not lost the plot, honestly. Lambrusco doesn’t have the best reputation, I’ll grant you. The much maligned version, produced in vast quantities, sweet, mostly white, low alcohol and always cheap is sadly still made today, but I’m not talking about what those in the US called ‘Italy’s Coca-Cola’. There is still much to be done to reverse the damage the 70’s and 80’s caused a lot of wines (over-oaked Chardonnay anyone?) But here’s the thing, there has always been good Lambrusco, the Italians just kept it to themselves, exporting the dross to the rest of the world, and I’m sure they laughed as they did so.  

Lambrusco means ‘wild grape’ and it is grown in the land of Parmesan and Ferraris, Emilia-Romagna in the north east of Italy, stretching from the provinces of Modena, Reggio-Emilia as well as Parma and the Lombardy. It has many varieties, all red, which grow easily in the varied terroir. the main ones are:

Lambrusco di Sobara – the lightest in body with high acidity, thin skinned and therefore light in colour and tannins. Generally regarded as the highest quality variety, producing the most fragrant wines. 

Lambrusco Grasparossa – typically dry and full bodied with a deep colour, the most tannic of the varieties. Often planted on the hillsides.  

Lambrusco Salamino – light in colour and body, high in acidity, made in both semi-sweet and dry varieties, it’s mostly planted on the plains and comes between Sobara and Grasparossa flavour wise. 

Even though the grapes used are red, the wine can be made in a range of colours from the palest white, to pink, to deep ruby red. Most of Lambrusco is made in the Charmat method (the same as Prosecco) where the second fermentation is done in large stainless steel tanks and produces fully sparkling – Spumante - or semi-sparkling - Frizzante. This method of production preserves the fruit, freshness, aromas and flavours for a wine that is meant to be drunk young. Lambrusco pairs well with many foods; it’s no coincidence that the Italians make so many food-friendly wines; what grows together, goes together. So its versatile and can be enjoyed with pizza, Parmesan, prosciutto, salami and tomato-based dishes; it's also great at BBQs. The wines can be dry or sweet, but don’t be put off by the residual sweetness, the beauty of these wines is their high acidity, which makes them vibrant and well balanced, which highlights the berry fruitiness both in aroma and flavour. But if you are wanting the drier versions, look for ‘bruto natural’ (driest) then ‘extra brut’ or ‘brut’. Another advantage is that they are usually a lower alcohol wine, often 10-10.5% ABV and with the aforementioned new duty system in the UK, wines are taxed by their level of alcohol. Making these wine’s unlikely to be hit by huge price hikes. But better than that, calories are lower and less headaches. 

I predict we will be seeing a lot more of these better quality examples on the shelves and I, personally, would choose it over Prosecco. Granted, Lambrusco isn’t Barolo, but it doesn’t need to be. It’s in a league of its own. As one wine producer put it, “it’s approachable and joyful, a modern interpretation of Lambrusco that stays true to its roots, while appealing to a wider global audience. A crowd pleaser that pairs beautifully with a variety of dishes, but light enough to be enjoyed on its own.

Wine Pro Tip

The punt (indentation) at the bottom of a bottle of wine is not an indicator of quality, it’s a design decision. Historically deep punts strengthened the bottle's structure and stability, which helped especially during transportation. This is very important for sparkling wine because of the extra pressure inside the bottle. The bottle design is historic, cultural and for the most part, purely aesthetic, not as some would wish you to believe, an indicator of quality.

Recommendations

Cleto Chiarli, Nivola Lambrusco Grasparossa, Emilia-Romagna, Castelvetro

Aromas and flavours of fresh red fruits, intense red colour. Excellent with lasagne.

It’s not a heavy red in any sense; chill before serving to get the best out of it.

£12 mix six in Majestic (majestic.co.uk)

£11.70 from svinando.co.uk

Costa Di Giulia, Bolgheri Bianco  2023, Michele Satta, Tuscany

I had this beautiful wine when I was at Hawksmoor on Deansgate in Manchester (they have an amazing wine list). It’s a blend of mostly Vermentino with Sauvignon Blanc. It’s an example of what some of the best Tuscan wine makers do brilliantly, blending their native grapes with typically French varieties, breaking the rules of the DOCG (where only certain native varietals are permitted) but creating the most beautiful wines. 

This has beautiful citrus fruits and white flowers with a touch of minerality, fresh and vibrant with a perfect balance of acidity and fruitiness.

Available in Hawskmoor restaurants, £62 thehawksmoor.com

Cin cin et salute a tutti,

Ange

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