Sailing Back to Romance
Tony and Barbara Hallwood embarked on a Caribbean adventure aboard Star Clipper
With winter tightening its grip back home, we stepped aboard the majestic Star Clipper in Jamaica and felt time loosen its hold. Since retiring, we have travelled widely, but nothing prepared us for the quiet thrill of boarding a true tall sailing ship. Four masts rose above the quayside in Montego Bay, canvas neatly furled, teak decks glowing in the Caribbean sun. For the next eleven nights, this would be our home.
Embarkation was relaxed and seamless: no clamour, no blaring announcements. Instead, a smiling crew welcomed us as the breeze carried the scent of salt and polished wood. Our cabin was compact but beautifully appointed, with a porthole framing the sea like a painting. We unpacked quickly, eager to explore, and wandered the deck as the ship slipped her lines.
As Jamaica’s green hills receded, we joined our fellow travellers for our first 'sail away' party. Sails were unfurled, canvas billowing, ropes singing and suddenly we were sailing, not cruising. The difference matters, and our adventure had truly begun.
Life aboard Star Clipper unfolds at an unhurried and civilised pace. Mornings often began with coffee on deck, staring out across the horizon with our day's port coming into view whilst watching the sun lift itself from the sea. There is something deeply restorative about breathing in the sea air and enjoying the peaceful calm. On this cruise, our sea days delivered pleasures abound. We learned the names of the sails, watched the crew scamper aloft with easy confidence and learnt how to tie sailors' knots and recognise stars under the moonlight. There were informative port lectures, a discreet spa for sore muscles, alongside shaded corners perfect for reading and contemplating. We rediscovered the joy of doing very little, an underrated luxury after decades of busy lives. We even joined in the yoga sessions which were uplifting (especially at sunset) and were adapted to suit all, from beginners to the more experienced yogi.
Our exceptional Cruise Director Frederic, was always keen to keep us entertained as he ran through the day's itinerary, alongside pointing out the flying fish skipping alongside the ship, chased by the eager Boobie birds! He even ran into the restaurant one morning to encourage us all on deck to see a pod of playful dolphins entertaining us just off the coast of Jost Van Dyke, one of our stunning ports of call in the British Virgin Islands.
Meals on board were generous and relaxed, way exceeding our expectations, although not surprising when you realise that Star Clipper is a member of the 'Chaine des Rotisseurs'. Dinner was always a special occasion and not just on Captain Night. The service was exemplary and the quality of the food was exceptional. Vegetarian and vegan options showed the breadth of the amazing culinary choices.
Breakfast and lunches were far more relaxed dining experiences, whilst the ever-smiling waiters always impressed us by knowing our names, cabin numbers and our drink preferences. Attention to detail really does make a difference.
Rarely have we seen such a relaxed atmosphere on board a cruise and this is where Star Clipper comes into its own. You are actively encouraged to share tables, encouraging conversation with fellow travellers from across the globe. On previous cruises we have preferred to sit in the restaurant on our own but on this cruise we mingled with our fellow international travellers who valued travel and sailing stories over status.
Over our 11 days friendships blossomed as we all shared our travel experiences in the popular Tropical Bar, the beating heart of the ship or whilst watching the ship's crew guiding Star Clipper smoothly into and out of port. Time on Star Clipper is not spent in your cabin but shared with fellow travellers, soaking in the sea breeze, sailing from one amazing Caribbean island to another. For the more responsible cruise travellers our sailing ship ran on wind power alone whenever conditions allowed saving fuel and the environment.
When land appeared, it was never with the jolt of a crowded port. Instead, we anchored off jewel-like islands where the water shifted from sapphire to turquoise before your eyes. Tenders whisked us ashore for days that felt deliciously unscripted. We snorkelled where the sea was alive with colour, wandered historic towns and sleepy villages where time seemed to stand still, and we lingered over lunches of fresh fish, lime and cold beer. There was always the comfort of knowing that Star Clipper was waiting offshore to welcome us home after our daily sojourn.
Our chosen itinerary weaved its way slowly from Montego Bay and San Antonio in Jamaica to Santa Domingo, the historic capital of the Dominican Republic before cruising around the stunning British Virgin Islands and the beautiful St Kitts.
With four sea days on this cruise, it offered us a true taste of life on the ocean wave. One of the highlights was the opportunity to climb the rigging and deliver silhouettes against a blue sky. For those intrepid sailors who braved the 50' climb up the rigging (harness provided!), the extended horizon from the Crows Nest was outstanding. Whilst the less energetic ‘sailors' were able to take the helm (albeit briefly) at the ship's wheel under the careful watch of our Captain. Those with a need to work off a few calories were encouraged to help raise the sails as the wind sped us sustainably to our next destination, whilst others enjoyed a backroom tour of the engine room, which was a fascinating and enlightening glimpse into the workings of the truly amazing Star Clipper.
Sunset was our favourite time of the day. Each night as the sun dipped, we sipped a cocktail, the ship took on a golden glow and the air softened. Dinner was a highlight, casually elegant without pretension, Caribbean flavours were woven into classic cuisine, wines thoughtfully chosen. Afterwards, we might wander on deck beneath a spill of stars, or listen to music in the Tropical Bar, where conversation flowed easily and friendships formed naturally. Making memories is what travel is all about and our cruise on Star Clipper delivered in droves. We sometimes felt we were on a stage set and feeling part of something timeless and special. It is not surprising, therefore, that we learnt that the level of repeat customers is high, a true testament to the service provided by Star Clipper.
Our personal highlight was arriving at the British Virgin Islands, which welcomed us like old friends. We anchored off Norman Island and took the tender to shore. Allegedly the uninhabited island inspired the writing of Treasure Island by Robert Louis Stevenson. It was paradise, a deserted island with white beaches. We had a lovely hike uphill to view the panorama before snorkelling (equipment provided onboard at no charge) in crystal clear shallow waters of the bay. All too soon we had to leave our desert island but knowing that tomorrow would bring another stunning island lifted our spirits and of course it seemed rather prudent that the entertainment onboard was Pirate Night!
Over the next three days we visited the picturesque island of Jost Van Dyke alongside Sports Hole and Spanish Town on Tortola. However no one will ever forget the sumptuous BBQ lunch on White Bay Beach that the crew prepared for us. This really did feel like paradise.
The final day was spent on beautiful St Kitts, where we rode the fabulous scenic railway, a journey of 18 miles by narrow gauge train. We experienced the scenery and culture of this unspoiled island while enjoying delicious rum punches as we soaked up the wonderful and striking coastline.
What surprised us most was how quickly we had settled into the rhythm of sail. Without constant connectivity, Wi-Fi is discreet rather than dominant and we found ourselves more present, more attentive to each other. We talked, really talked, about the past and the years ahead. Inevitably, the conversation always seemed to slip into holiday mode where everyone was eager to share their past experiences on board Star Clipper, their own sailing experiences and to share their plans for their next cruise.
The crew deserve special mention. The Cruise Director was outstanding, always with a smile on his face, professional yet warm. The musician Jugey was exceptional. The two young sea cadets in training truly inspired us to the future of sailing; they were genuinely proud of their ship. This was travel as it once was: intimate, elegant, and infused with a sense of adventure.
As our eleven nights drew to a close and Antigua’s shoreline came into view, we felt the familiar tug of reluctance. Disembarking was bittersweet. We left with salt in our hair, a phone full of the most incredible photos, many new friendships and memories to last a lifetime.
Cruising on Star Clipper is not about spectacle or excess. It is about romance in the truest sense: feeling the cool breeze and of shared sunsets, of journeys that nourish rather than overwhelm. For us, stepping off the ship felt less like the end of a holiday and more like the closing of a particularly beautiful chapter - one we hope to revisit, sails unfurled, somewhere down the line. Quite simply, we loved it.
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