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Spotlight On: San Carlo Manchester 20th Birthday Celebrations

Spotlight On: San Carlo Manchester 20th Birthday Celebrations

WORDS: Ange Seddon

From humble Sicilian origins to one of the UK’s most successful, independent restaurant groups, San Carlo is a supreme example of what tenacity, drive and style look like. With over 35 destinations spanning the globe, delivering a passion for the best Italian food and wines, backed by impeccable service and their own inimitable style, they have a winning formula. A chain this is not, no centralised kitchens here, each restaurant has its own talented, dedicated chefs and management teams.

So, with all that in mind, this October marks the 20th anniversary of arguably their greatest success, San Carlo on King Street West in the heart of Manchester. Attracting Manchester royalty and the glitterati alike, that does not mean it is inaccessible to us humble folk; on the contrary. All are guaranteed a warm welcome, made to feel special from the moment you step over the threshold, whether you are coming for a special occasion, date night or just to catch up with your mates. I have even been a solo diner, it was so entertaining watching all the comings and goings, that, and the food was sublime. For any restaurant to survive 20 years, especially in this current climate is testimony to how good San Carlo is. It has not been without its challenges, but it's to their credit that people keep wanting to come back.

I had the privilege of being invited to their 20th birthday celebrations. Greeted with a perfectly chilled glass of vintage Champagne Drappier 2005 this really set the tone for the evening. This was special. Each of the wines we had were sourced from 2005 vintages, a lovely touch, and the sort of attention to detail you would expect from our host Marcello Distephano, clearly incredibly proud of where he started in the business as a humble server, rising to become CEO.

The thing I adore about Italian food is its simplicity, taking the beautiful ingredients and making them the star. That is something San Carlo does very well. Our antipasti of rosemary and sea salt focaccia, creamy green olives, premium cured meats (that melted in your mouth), and the freshest buffalo mozzarella accompanied by simple roasted cherry tomatoes, practically sang to me. 

Porcini risotto theatrically tossed in a whole Parmesan wheel, finished with white truffle was Italian indulgence at its best. Next, we had pan fried turbot with clams, San Carlo excels at fish and seafood cookery and this was no exception. A regal ingredient treated with respect, perfection in a forkful. 

Again, more theatrics arrived in the form of the biggest cake I have ever encountered. It was a Torta ai Lamponi, a simple sponge cake with Chantilly cream and raspberries. It was huge, the size of a Bee Network bus tyre (although a lot prettier) and despite its size it was light as a feather, delicious and the perfect end to our celebration. 

The wines were a showcase of Italy’s finest. From Umbria we had Cervaro della Sala 2022, a blend of Chardonnay and grechetto, elevating the flavours in our antipasti. I had mentioned previously when writing about San Carlo in Alderley Edge that I would love to try their super Tuscan wine Tignanello, and that’s what we had next, from the world renown Antinori family. The aromas were rich, black cherries, dried herbs, but the taste was so much more, cassis, baking spices, dark fruit that lingered on the palate. Beautiful, iconic and special. But the wine that had everyone talking was the Beni di Batasiolo Barolo 2005. Its lightness of colour was deceptive, this was an exceptional wine, ripe tannins, perfectly balanced acidity. There were dark cherries, blueberries and despite its age, sweet raspberry flavours. Rich with great depth, a beautiful expression of an excellent Barolo, the best I have ever come across. 

That summed up the evening for me, Italian generosity of spirit, the warmest of welcomes, the finest of wines served with perfectly cooked food. It is an evening I will not forget in a hurry. San Carlo has always been a favourite of mine, I most certainly will be back. Mille Grazie! 

sancarlo.co.uk

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