Portugal’s Enticing Douro
Tony and Barbara Hallwood on why exploring the Douro River aboard AmaSintra may just be your next great love affair
There is something romantic about a river cruise where time seems to slow and every bend delivers a new panorama waiting to be experienced. No sooner had we departed Porto we were met by the shimmering hues of terraced vineyards cascading down ancient hillsides - it was the warmest welcome to the Douro Valley, winding its way across Northern Portugal.
We were looking forward with anticipation to being immersed into heritage, wine and gastronomy, whilst soaking up the slow, relaxed rhythms of a region where time moves like the river itself: steady, winding and full of surprises.
Our home for the next seven days was the AmaSintra, AmaWaterways’ newest “jewel in its crown” along the Douro River, its unique taupe exterior blending in with the ever-changing landscape whilst its interior exudes elegance and comfort. From the moment you step aboard you feel the luxury from its natural oak finishes and quality contemporary design alongside the friendliest smiles from the attentive Portuguese crew. Joining us on our sojourn were guests from Panache Cruises.
Our stateroom was luxurious, and the panoramic window framed the river delivering ever-changing views. The marble bathroom was more akin to a boutique hotel whilst there were luxurious touches from fine linen to the soft and neutral tones, inspired by local decor.
Our favourite location on board was the expansive sun deck with its own pool. Offering an all embracing 360-degree view of the passing landscape, there was no better location to chill in the comfortable double recliners. We were immediately taken aback by the wide range of breathtaking views from dramatic granite gorges to impressive locks and dams and from picturesque hillside quintas perched on steep slopes to beautiful hamlets, towns and villages that have remained unchanged for centuries. You can almost touch the scenery and have quality time to relax as the world sails by, escaping the crowds.
With only 102 passengers on board, AmaSintra designed exclusively for the Douro, is certainly setting new standards for river cruising. Whether it was watching our chef create and bake the infamous pastel de natas, undertaking morning exercise on the sun deck as the mist rises from the valley to the informative port lectures that deliver a real insight into the wide range of included shore excursions.
The nightly 'Sip and Sail’ delivered a great opportunity to meet our fellow travellers for a sundowner or cocktail before either dining alone or joining other passengers in the intimate restaurant for dinner. Watching the sun set over the changing landscape whilst drinking Vinho Verde was always a fitting end to the day.
The constant thread across our cruise was winemaking. In this region it is more than tradition, the Douro is famous not only for its fortified port but also for increasingly distinguished wines, crafted in family quintas passed down through generations. We were about to embark on a memorable journey, learning about the history of this unique region alongside making new friends from across the world.
Our voyage along the Douro was incredible, starting in Porto, a vibrant city that delivers the grandeur of baroque churches and azulejo (tile) covered facades. It was the ship's sumptuous ‘Welcome on Board’ dinner that set the tone for our voyage - a five-course paired with superb local wines - each plate a celebration of the land we were about to explore. Our first evening ended on the sun deck immersing ourselves in the sunset views as AmaSintra slowly cruised under the six bridges of Porto and as the twinkling lights on the quayside appeared - there was a romantic feel in the air. The warmth of the Porto evening delivered an inspiring welcome to this enchanting region of Portugal.
Our first port of call was Régua, the heart of the Douro wine region and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Nestled amidst undulating terraces that seem to defy gravity, Régua is a hub for port wine and our included excursion took us to the Mateus Palace and Gardens. Many of us can recall that infamous Mateus bottle!
Other stops included Castelo Rodrigo, a fortified village perched on a ridge with panoramic views over Northern Portugal and Pinhão, a picturesque village surrounded by dramatic vineyard slopes.
Our Douro cruise served up a special treat when we reached the Spanish border, travelling by coach to experience one of Spain’s favourite and amazing cities - Salamanca - what a revelation it is. Known as the “Golden City” for its sun-warmed sandstone buildings, Salamanca is a living museum of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque splendour.
Other highlights of our cruise were the opportunity to dine at one of the oldest wine estates in the region - Quinta da Avessada. Nestled in the heart of the vines themselves, this winery was a revelation as was our host, Maria. Among olive trees and vines drenched in the late afternoon light, we learned the meticulous art of port making alongside tasting tawny, ruby and vintage ports in a 250-year-old cellar.
Lamego was another favourite for us. This hilltop town is crowned by ‘The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies’, with its Baroque staircase of 686 steps offering breathtaking views and spiritual solace. After our climb, we toasted our walk in the village by drinking fine wine at 'A Presunteca' a family bodega in the heart of Lamego, the sparkling Raposeira wines complemented the local cheeses and presunto iberico perfectly.
Our week aboard AmaSintra delivered a real insight into a region of Portugal that was full of surprises. We marvelled at the medieval architecture, soaked in the dramatic scenery and enjoyed the bountiful local tastes of Porto’s wine regions with our fellow travellers. We all agreed that this cruise had been a real eye opener and had a unique combination that cannot easily be matched.
For those seeking a cruise that ventures into the realm of memory-making, the Douro aboard AmaSintra may just be your next great love affair. With superb wine tasting, gourmet cuisine alongside stunning yet varied landscapes…travel the Douro now before the secret is out!
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