Tango, Taste & Timeless Landscapes
From the cultural riches of Buenos Aires to the stunning landscapes of Patagonia, Tony and Barbara Hallwood danced their way through Argentina
For many years, our travels have been defined by life at sea; immersive cruise itineraries, ever-changing horizons, and the gentle rhythm of ocean voyages. But this time, we decided to do something rather different. Trading decks for boulevards, we set our sights firmly on flying over 7,000 miles to Argentina, the second largest country in South America.
We were excited to be visiting a country with a blend of European-style culture, world-class food and wine alongside dramatic landscapes and breathtaking natural wonders. We were also hoping to experience cultural immersion and find out why Argentina is one of the fastest growing travel destinations.
The real impetus for this journey was, of course, family. Our son is currently based in Argentina and has embraced the culture wholeheartedly and now speaks fluent Spanish - a skill that proved both impressive and extremely useful as he guided us through his adopted home.
Vibrant Buenos Aires, the nation’s capital, immediately charmed us. There is an undeniable European elegance to the city, blended seamlessly with a vibrant Latin energy. It is not hard to see why the capital is viewed as the “Paris of South America”.
One of our first stops was the extraordinary El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a former theatre transformed into what must surely be one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world. Browsing beneath ornate balconies and a dome painted with Italian frescoes felt almost surreal. There is even a cafe on what was the stage area of the theatre, where you can drink and eat whilst reading.
Equally captivating was the Teatro Colón, one of the world’s most majestic opera houses, which is renowned globally for its acoustics and grandeur. Even without attending a performance, a tour of this architectural masterpiece was enough to appreciate its significance.
We also visited the hauntingly beautiful Recoleta Cemetery, where the mausoleum of Eva ‘Evita’ Peron is located. The cemetery itself feels like a city within a city, filled with intricate sculptures and towering marble mausoleums. Nearby at the atmospheric Eva Peron Museum, we learned about the life and work of the woman behind the legend, delivering a fascinating insight into Argentina's famous First Lady.
South of the city, 'The Caminito’ located in La Boca district is a street museum of colourful painted houses where local artists have used the buildings as their outdoor canvas to create a unique and vibrant atmosphere. A visit to the local blue and gold painted Boca Juniors stadium was a must, as football in Argentina is an intense passion, having produced soccer legends like Diego Maradona and Lionel Messi.
On Sundays, San Telmo Market and its surrounding streets come alive with antiques, artisan stalls, tango dancers and street performers. It was in the market that we tasted some of the very best Empanadas of our trip, accompanied by a glass of Malbec!
No visit to Buenos Aires however, would be complete without immersing oneself in tango. With some trepidation, but plenty of enthusiasm, we stepped into our dancing shoes at the Academia Nacional del Tango. Let’s just say elegance did not come naturally to us, but the experience was tremendous fun and gave us a newfound respect for the dancers we later watched gliding effortlessly across the floor at the nearby Cafe Tortoni.
Returning to the heart of the city, we enjoyed spectacular 360-degree views from the top of the Mirador Del Obelisk, one of Buenos Aires most iconic landmarks. Marking the centre of the city, it delivers a unique perspective of the world’s widest avenue (Avenida 9 de Julio) featuring 16 lanes of traffic and showcasing unique views of the Argentinian capital from a height of 67.5 meters!
Of course, Argentina is as much about its cuisine as its culture. We indulged wholeheartedly, savouring delicious Empanadas (looking like small Cornish Pasties), premium Argentinian beef (the quality is just out of this world) and tasted world-renowned Malbec wines (originating from the Mendoza region), and perhaps most surprisingly, some of the best ice cream we have ever tasted.
Escaping the urban sophistication of Buenos Aires, we then flew south for a weekend break to Bariloche in Argentina's Patagonia region. Here, nature, not people, takes centre stage. Surrounded by lakes and framed by the towering and snow-capped Andes, the scenery was simply breathtaking.
Bariloche, a charming town with Alpine-inspired architecture and artisan chocolate factories, borders a large glacial lake. On our early autumn visit, it delivered an air of peace and solitude alongside clear blue skies and a hint of sun. It is a popular base for hiking and skiing in the nearby mountains and exploring the surrounding “Argentinian Lake District”.
We chose to walk the hour-long trek up to nearby Cerro Campanario (a chairlift is an easier option) and on reaching the summit, we were lost for words as the amazing panorama unfolded, offering views of the seven lakes, their deep blues contrasting beautifully with the snow-dusted Andean peaks beyond. It was one of those moments that reminds you just how diverse and awe-inspiring our planet can be.
Our last few days were spent in Northern Argentina visiting one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World, the magnificent Iguazu Falls. Located in the Iguazu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we marvelled at the world’s largest and most spectacular group of waterfalls and explored both from the Argentinian and Brazilian sides. The contrast between the two experiences was striking.
On the Argentinian side, we enjoyed a charming train ride through the national park with its dense, humid subtropical rainforest, and then walked along three separate well-marked trails that allowed us to experience the falls from multiple perspectives, each one more impressive than the last. The iconic 'Devils Throat' was the highlight, standing 80 meters high, with the surrounding spray creating its own micro climate, whilst the power and speed of the waterfall was spellbinding.
In Brazil, however, the lower panoramic viewpoints of the Falls felt more immersive. We stood in awe as we watched the incredible power of the cascading water from over 275 waterfalls across the 3 kilometre wide horseshoe-shaped escarpment. Nature's display was further enhanced by the sight of a beautiful rainbow stretching across the falls, a moment that we will never forget.
It is easy to see why Iguazu Falls is considered one of the modern natural wonders of the world. Photographs simply do not do it justice.
Our 'dance' through Argentina from the cultural riches of Buenos Aires to the sheer power of Iguazu Falls and the stunning landscapes of Patagonia left a lasting impression on us both.
And will we return to Argentina? Absolutely. In fact, plans are already in place for December, when the summer weather will deliver longer days, allowing us to explore more of this amazing country. And yes, you’ve guessed it, next time we will be arriving in Buenos Aires on a cruise ship. Some habits, after all, are just too good to break.
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