Spotlight on... Max Coen, Head Chef at Dorian in Notting Hill, London
Max Coen is the chef-owner of Michelin-starred Dorian, a modern British bistro in the heart of Notting Hill. In just two years, the restaurant has earned a Michelin star, been named No. 21 in the UK’s National Restaurant Awards, and established itself as a cornerstone of its community. Here, Max discusses his career and the creation of Dorian.
“For me, cooking has always been about precision and a deep respect for ingredients. My dishes are bold in flavour and rooted in intricate, Michelin-level techniques, yet I strive to plate them with a relaxed ease that makes the complexity behind them feel effortless.
I was born in Salisbury, Wiltshire, and my journey into the kitchen happened by chance — I covered a shift at a local pub and was immediately hooked. That experience sparked a passion that led me to pursue a career in professional kitchens. I started at Maze Grill under Gordon Ramsay’s group, where I built my foundational skills, before earning a sought-after stagiaire position at Frantzén, Stockholm’s three-Michelin-starred powerhouse. There, I was thrown into an intense world of precision, technique, and innovation, working under the watchful eye of the global fine dining scene.
When I returned to London, I joined Kitchen Table in Fitzrovia, where I was part of the team that helped secure its second Michelin star. I worked my way up to sous chef before moving to Ikoyi, where I had the opportunity to cook alongside Jeremy Chan in one of London’s most forward-thinking kitchens.
It was at Kitchen Table that I met Chris D’Sylva, the entrepreneur behind Notting Hill Fish Shop and Supermarket of Dreams, a specialty grocer supplying some of London’s best restaurants. Our collaboration happened naturally—during lockdown, I ran pop-ups using produce from his shop, while he sourced everything I needed and even offered me the Fish Shop space in the evenings. Over time, our shared vision for a modern British bistro—one that champions incredible ingredients while applying Michelin-level craft—took shape. In 2022, we brought that vision to life with Dorian.”
Dorian
“Exceptional sourcing is at the heart of what we do at Dorian. We work with the very best ingredients, from Gillardeau oysters and cold-water scallops from Norway to the nutrient-rich vegetables of NamaYasai in Sussex, delivered within hours of harvest. Our game birds are shot to order, and our fish come straight from trusted Cornish day boats, ensuring peak freshness.
Some of our signature dishes include hand-dived Orkney scallops, pan-seared for a thick crust, glazed with strawberry and kimchi sauce, then finished over Japanese binchotan. We serve them with an oyster and finger lime cream, a foam sauce made from scallop skirt and roasted red carrots, and champagne-brined trout roe. Another standout is our Cornish squid, plated with tempura lobster claw, grilled purple sprouting broccoli, and a chili emulsion with clementine and calamansi.
With access to some of the finest produce available, I place a huge emphasis on building strong relationships with our suppliers. I take inspiration from the seasons and market fluctuations, letting the ingredients guide our menus. That’s why our dishes are listed simply—as a composition of key elements—allowing the quality of each ingredient to shine.
Our wine program, curated by Head of Wine Jeri Kimber-Ndiaye, features a rotating selection of over 1,000 bins. While Burgundy and Champagne are at the core, we also highlight quality-driven, lesser-known producers, indigenous grape varietals, and rising stars from around the world.
The restaurant takes its name from The Picture of Dorian Gray, Oscar Wilde’s story of hedonism and indulgence. In that same spirit, Dorian is about the pleasure of exceptional dining—unpretentious yet uncompromising in quality.”
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