The World in a Glass
WORDS: Ange Seddon
Wines of Greece
Hello dearest wine lovers, this month I thought we could take a look at wines from Greece. They have been making slow but steady inroads onto our supermarket shelves, but it may not be the first thing we reach for because they are often unfamiliar grape varieties, and it is hard to choose something when you don’t know what to expect.
But first let us do a bit of history. From the heights of Mount Olympus to the Aegean Islands, Greece is a country that has created wines for thousands of years. They were mentioned in Aristotle’s writings and evidence of their production has been found in ancient archaeology. There are more than 300 indigenous grape varieties (you will be pleased to hear we are not digging into that many!) and it is home to some of the world’s oldest vineyards. Now, thanks to a wonderful new generation of winemakers, they are taking all that history and bringing the wines of Greece back to centre stage.
Growing up, the only Greek wine I had heard of was Retsina, a white wine made with Aleppo pine tree sap. I remember my dad having a bottle that someone had brought back from a Grecian holiday. He was trying it with his brothers… their faces said it all.
Grapes to look out for:
Whites
Assyrtiko – Originally from the volcanic island of Santorini. This is one of Greece’s most famous white wines. Bright, bone dry, citrussy with a hint of saltiness. Someone said it’s like drinking sea spray and sunshine. It makes a delightful alternative to Sancerre. Goes brilliantly with seafood.
Malagousia – a richer style of white wine, often compared to Viognier or Chardonnay. Grown mostly in northern and central Greece with flavours of peach, lime, orange blossom and orange peel.
Moschofilero – originating from the Peloponnese, this pink-skinned grape creates beautiful aromatic wines with a crisp, dry finish. Aromas and flavours of rose petals, melon, pink grapefruit and lemon. Can be made still, sparkling or rosé and is often compared to Sauvignon Blanc. Perfect with spanakopita or fresh peach and burrata salad.
Reds
Xinomavro – hailing from Naoussa and Amyndeo, this has often been called ‘the Barolo of Greece’. The wines are structured and complex with great ageing potential and packed with attitude. Floral aromas, high acidity and tannins, raspberry notes and allspice. This wine goes perfectly with slow-cooked lamb and grilled meats (souvlaki) or dishes with a rich tomato base or mushrooms.
Agiorgitiko – Greece’s most planted red grape, originating from Nemea in the Peloponnese. A delightfully fruity red, often compared to Merlot. Think raspberry, blackcurrant, nutmeg, and herbs like oregano. Like Xinamavro, it goes perfectly with Greek dishes such as souvlaki, moussaka and tomato-based pizzas but would also work well with Middle Eastern cuisine.
Liatiko – one of Greece’s oldest grape varieties, originally from Crete. A beautiful rich flavour of dried fruit and spice and warming earthy and elegant notes. A lighter red in colour and can be made dry or sweet. For the dry version, look for Lyrarakis on the label.
So next time you are shopping, try looking for a Greek wine; you may find a new favourite.
““Every time I open a bottle of wine, it’s like an amazing trip somewhere.” ”
Cin cin et salute a tutti,
Ange
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