The World in a Glass
WORDS: Ange Seddon
Hello dearest wine lovers. This month we are going to take a deep dive into the wonderfully eclectic world of Chardonnay.
First, I need to start with a confession. I used to belong to the ‘AbC’ club. Whenever I was asked what I would like to drink, my response would often be, ‘Anything but Chardonnay.’ This elicited a wry smile from my host/waiter/sommelier who undoubtedly had heard this line a million times before. I thought I was being clever, witty even, but no, I was being naïve. My earlier experience with Chardonnay had never ended well, even when I thought I was buying a ‘good’ bottle. I did not enjoy the heavy oakiness a lot of them had; it felt like I was running my tongue along an old farmyard fence. The ‘AbC’ club was a backlash to the late 90s and early 2000s popularity of heavily oaked and buttery Chardonnays. At the time, the overproduction of this style led most to believe that this was Chardonnay’s only style. Consumers turned to the fresh, more fruit-led styles of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. While it may have been Bridget Jones’s drink of choice, it wasn’t for me. But then I started to properly study wine for my exams and discovered I could not have been more wrong.
Some facts
Chardonnay is the world's most planted white grape variety. There isn’t just one style of Chardonnay, there is a whole spectrum. This chameleon-like grape adapts to its environment, climate, and soils. Its character is shaped by where it is grown and the processes it goes through. The wines range from inexpensive and easy drinking to some of the most complex and sought-after wines in the world.
Its general profile is a dry white wine that is medium to full-bodied but with a range of flavours. In cooler climates it is more citrussy/lemony, with orchard fruits and a mineral freshness. In warmer climates it can develop more rich stone fruit mixed with tropical fruit such as pineapple. Chardonnay will always have an affinity with oak, and it is still used a lot, creating toast and vanilla flavours and aromas. Do not let this put you off though; it produces rich, toasty wines and enhances the character, rather than dominating it.
Malolactic conversion is a process used that helps produce buttery, creamy and more rounded flavours in the wine. We talked about lees ageing before, and this is another process which can further enhance the creaminess and add rich notes of biscuit and brioche. Age-worthy Chardonnays will also develop further complexity in bottle, with subtle flavours of nuts and honey.
So how do we know which one to choose? The wine label itself can often be confusing. The practice of places like France, Italy and Spain can label by place (region) rather than by the grape variety. They assume a lot of background knowledge, so you cannot always tell what you are getting.
One grape, many (dis)guises.
Let us start with Chardonnay that is hiding in plain sight.
Chablis
The cleaner, crisper expression of this grape comes under the name of Chablis, a region in France that has a particular type of soil that includes fossilised seashells, clay, and limestone, giving the wine a beautiful saline quality. It may not say 'Chardonnay' on the bottle, but here it is the only grape allowed to be used. Generally, there is no oak allowing the freshness of the citrus and green apple notes to shine.
Champagne
Chardonnay is the main white grape used in the production of Champagne (and some other traditional method sparkling wines such as Franciacorta, an earlier WIAG recommendation), and in a wine labelled Blanc de blancs, it is usually 100% Chardonnay.
Burgundy
This is a small, yet mighty, area of the wine world in eastern France. It is the home of Chardonnay (and Pinot Noir). Some of the finest vineyards in the world are found here, and the wines they produce are incredibly age-worthy and command some of the highest prices. However, there are many more approachable, affordable wines here, and if it is a white wine that has Burgundy or Bourgogne on the label, it almost certainly is Chardonnay.
The rest of the world
As Chardonnay can grow almost anywhere, many counties have their own version, adapting their practices to get the most out of the grape. Its evolution has continued; heavy ‘farm fence’ oakiness is out, and the new, leaner, zestier with refreshing acidity is very much in. Those using oak are now kind enough to put it on the actual label, so we know what flavour profile to expect. But it is not as overpowering as it once was. California, Oregon, Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania, South Africa, Chile, and many more are producing some outstanding examples.
Whether matured in oak for richness and complexity, or kept unoaked for freshness and vibrancy, one thing is certain: there is a Chardonnay for everyone, and if you previously belonged to the ‘AbC’ club, well, you just haven’t found your style of Chardonnay yet. So, I suggest you keep trying.
Recommendations
Alain Chavez ‘Les Charmes’ Puligny Montrachet 2021/22
This was the wine that changed my mind about Chardonnay. I was fortunate enough to taste it while studying for my last wine exam. I had the 2019 vintage, but this will be similar. It tasted elegant; I could smell stone fruits, some floral aromas and creaminess. The taste was rich, peachy and creamy. Lovely and smooth. Very slight vanilla and toast from the oak, and a hint of honey and nuts. A beautiful long finish. A complex, outstanding wine, one to savour. Have it lightly chilled, not too cold, to appreciate the true flavours.
Majestic Wines £71 (or £60 in a mixed six)
Balfour 1503, unoaked Chardonnay, Kent, England 2022
This award-winning winery in the Garden of England has produced this beautiful unoaked Chardonnay. It still has a richness to it thanks to being aged on the lees (spent yeast cells) before bottling. It has a baked apple flavour with an oaty taste yet has a sharpness in its acidity, meaning it does not taste too sweet. An excellent example of an unoaked Chardonnay. Remember the 20/20 rule. Take it out of the fridge before serving it for 20 minutes and then leave it out. These wines taste so much better being slightly warmer (10-13 degrees C) than fridge cold.
Majestic wines £16 (or £14 in a mixed six)
Graham Beck Brut Sparkling Wine, South Africa
This gorgeous sparkling wine from a warmer climate is one that should be on your radar. Made in the traditional method, the same way champagne is made, using the same grapes. It is known as the ‘President's choice’ because it was served at both Nelson Mandela’s inauguration and Barack Obama’s presidential win. Loved by critics and consumers alike, it is a bargain of a sparkler that tastes more expensive than its price point. Tasting both fresh and creamy with a sharp citrus edge, finishing with a rich brioche flavour. Serve well chilled.
Majestic wines £16 (or £15 in a mixed six)
Cin cin et salute a tutti,
Ange
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