Villages, Vineyards, Vintages and a taste of Bordeaux
Tony and Barbara Hallwood embarked on Uniworld’s S.S. Bon Voyage for a week long journey through the enchanting landscapes of southwest France
There are some cruise holidays where you return home needing another break. This wasn’t one of them.
From the moment we stepped aboard Uniworld’s elegant S.S. Bon Voyage, life seemed to slow to the gentle rhythm of the Gironde, Garonne and Dordogne rivers. Over the following week, we discovered that the greatest luxury wasn’t simply the beautifully appointed ship, outstanding cuisine or carefully curated excursions. It was having the time to savour this beautiful region of southwest France at a wonderfully unhurried pace.
Our journey actually began the evening before embarkation with a relaxing stroll through Bordeaux’s historic and atmospheric Chartrons district. A recommendation led us to a delightful wine bar where we enjoyed a glass of local Bordeaux alongside a simple cheese board – the perfect introduction to the region. The following morning we discovered an extraordinary traditional bakery dating back to 1765, where bread is still baked in wood-fired ovens. Watching centuries old techniques still being used was a reminder that some of France’s finest cooking traditions remain wonderfully unchanged.
Wildfires to the west of the region had prompted a slight change to our embarkation point. Instead of embarking in the heart of Bordeaux, we joined our ship in the nearby historic riverside town of Blaye.
With just over 100 guests on board, the atmosphere immediately felt intimate and welcoming. The crew greeted everyone with genuine friendliness and before long we were settling into our elegant Classic cabin, ready for the week ahead.
Before dinner there was time to explore the impressive Citadel of Blaye, perched high above the Gironde Estuary. Wandering along the ancient ramparts, looking back towards our ship peacefully moored below, provided a memorable beginning to our cruise.
Being creatures of habit, we even managed a gentle riverside run before dressing for what would become the first of many exceptional dinners. Joining us on our cruise were 20 members of the Panache Cruises Founders Club, and it wasn’t long before conversations flowed as freely as the Bordeaux wines.
One of the greatest strengths of this river cruise itinerary quickly became apparent. Every day offered genuine choice.
Guests joined expertly organised excursions from cycling through vineyards to wandering around historic towns dotted along the riverbanks and from wine tastings at nearby châteaux to a private visit to the amazing light show at Bassins des Lumieres in Bordeaux.
Those travellers who chose to remain aboard relaxed with quality wine (or coffee) in hand, watching the wine estates, villages and church spires drift peacefully by from the 360 degree sun deck with its infinity pool delivering panoramic views of the peaceful river scenery. We opted for one of the excellent and informative guided cycle rides through the Médoc vineyards, covering around ten leisurely miles along quiet country lanes lined with immaculate rows of vines. There really was no right or wrong way to enjoy this ‘Brilliant Bordeaux' cruise.
Our time in Blaye also provided one of the week’s most memorable experiences. Wine tasting with exceptional wines coupled with contemporary art and an eclectic collection of classic cars. Our enthusiastic South African host, who had made France his home many years earlier, shared stories with infectious passion, making the visit feel less like a formal tasting and more like spending time with friends.
As our ship continued its gentle journey downstream along the Dordogne towards Libourne, a selection of guests chose to visit the famous Rémy Martin House, returning with equally enthusiastic stories of cognac production and centuries-old traditions. It perfectly illustrated one of the pleasures of river cruising, where everyone could tailor the experience to their own interests.
Evenings settled into a wonderfully relaxed routine. Superb French regional cuisine, beautifully presented and accompanied by carefully chosen local Bordeaux wines, was followed by music and entertainment in Le Salon Champagne, a stylish observation and cocktail lounge. Yet what we enjoyed most was simply sitting together after dinner, sharing stories of the day’s adventures with passengers from across the world who, only a few days earlier, had been complete strangers.
Saint-Émilion, however, was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the voyage.
Our morning began at Château Soutard, one of the region’s prestigious Grand Cru Classé estates. Walking through the immaculate barrel halls and learning about the meticulous care that goes into producing these celebrated wines gave us a new appreciation for Bordeaux’s winemaking heritage. The tasting confirmed why the region enjoys such a remarkable reputation, with Petit Soutard 2019 becoming our favourite wine of the cruise.
Back in the heart of the medieval village, we wandered cobbled streets lined with artisan shops and cafés before joining a fascinating guided walk. Descending into the remarkable 12th century Monolithic Church, carved entirely from limestone beneath the town was an unforgettable experience and a striking reminder that Saint-Émilion offers far more than simply world-class wine.
Returning to the ship that evening, we helped Uniworld celebrate its 50th anniversary with a special gala dinner in Le Grand Fromage restaurant. We chose quail breast filet, mushroom cappuccino with truffle foam and herb crusted halibut. To finish, the golden jubilee chocolate and orange sphere was almost too good to eat!
Wonderful food, live music and a lively atmosphere soon had guests on their feet dancing – a fitting celebration for a company that has spent five decades perfecting the art of river cruising.
Our final full day was spent back in Bordeaux itself. Rather than rushing between landmarks, we explored the city by bicycle, weaving through elegant streets and leafy boulevards before spending the afternoon strolling along the revitalised riverfront. Bordeaux effortlessly combines grand UNESCO listed 18th century architecture with a vibrant, modern energy, making it one of France’s most attractive cities to explore on foot.
Our final dinner in La Brasserie was every bit as impressive as the first, a multi-course regional menu prepared with locally sourced ingredients. Our choice of Plate la charcuterie de region, Escargots Bordelaise, Salmon Brûlée and concluding with Fromages du Jour was a revelation. As we finished our last glass of quality Bordeaux we visited the sun deck one last time for a nightcap beneath the stars, watching the reflections dance across the still waters of the Garonne.
The following morning it was time to head to Bordeaux Airport.
As we looked back on our week on board, we realised that this had never simply been a cruise through one of the world’s great wine regions. It had been a journey through history, culture, food and friendship, experienced at precisely the right pace.
River cruising has a remarkable ability to slow life down. It encourages you to linger over conversations, savour another glass of wine, wander one more cobbled street and simply watch the world drift by.
We arrived home already discussing which Uniworld river cruise we might explore next year. For us, there could be no better recommendation than that.
For more information on Uniworld river cruises please visit uniworld.com
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