The World in a Glass
WORDS: Ange Seddon
As the Christmas season approaches, it’s time for us to think about what delights we can drink with our festive feasts. I’d love to talk about all things sparkling. There’s something wonderful and celebratory about the pop and fizz of that first cork being released. Our favourite and obvious choice is Champagne, but I’d like you to expand your palate as there’s a whole world of other fantastic sparkling wines for you to consider.
What To Drink This Month
Whilst Champagne, with its racy acidity, fine bubbles and great complexity is our go to, there are other underrated sparkling wines that are made in the same way. In a nutshell, ‘Traditional Method’ (TM) wines go through a second fermentation in the bottle (as opposed to big tanks like Prosecco) where yeast and sugar is added to the base wine which is low in alcohol but has a high acidity. The yeast feeds on the sugar, that increases the alcohol and creates carbon dioxide which in turn is absorbed into the wine, creating the bubbles. The yeast cells (also known as lees) die and while the wine remains in contact with the lees, they impart the biscuity, nutty, toasty flavours that we all know and love. Non-vintage Champagne has a minimum of 12 months on the lees, vintage has to have a minimum of 3 years. Once this is complete the bottles are tilted slowly (known as riddling) to collect all the sediment in the neck of the bottle. This is removed in a process called disgorgement and we are left with a fabulous bottle of the most tasty bubbles. As you can imagine this is a labour intensive process, but the results are worth it.
This process is used in other winemaking regions, but they are not allowed to carry the Champagne name. English Sparkling Wines often use the same grapes and in recent years they have become more and more exquisite. Crisp, vibrant outstanding wines on a par with Champagne and getting better by the vintage. I particularly love Nyetimber, Gusborne and Camel Valley wines.
A lot of places use local grapes giving their wines a regional twist. French Crèmants are having a moment right now. They are high quality, sparkling wines that meet strict production standards. There are 8 different Crèmants; Alsace, Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Loire, Limoux, Jura, Die and Savoie, my favourite being Crèmant de Loire, made using Chenin Blanc. Each region uses the grapes that they make their still wines with;, they grow best in their region and display the best expression of wines in that area. Blanquette de Limoux actually predates Champagne for being the oldest sparkling wine made in France.
Moving on from France, Spain’s TM flagship sparkling wine is Cava. Made with local grapes; xarel-lo, parellada and macabeo. Zesty and refreshing, it makes a perfect pairing with tapas or seafood.
Then over to Italy, famous for the nation’s favourite, Prosecco, an affordable, very gluggable drink that can vary greatly in quality. The best kept secret though is their TM Franciacorta from Lombardy in the north. Made with locally grown Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco grapes. An intensely golden, sparkling wine that has lovely balance and an excellent long finish.
For TM sparkling wine from South Africa, look for ‘Method Cap Classique’ on the label, whilst German TM wines are called Sekt and can range from dry to sweet.
The wonderful thing about all these wines is that they are high in acidity and make a perfect aperitif, as acid stimulates the palate. They also pair well with so many foods, making them party friendly. So expand your wine journey and discover new sparkling favourites this festive season. You won’t be disappointed.
Wine Pro Tip
When opening a bottle of anything sparkling, chill it very well as it helps temper the pressure (which for Champagne is 90lbs psi, 3 times that of a car tyre), but care still needs to be taken. Tilt the bottle to 30 degrees, gripping the cork and use the other hand to grip the bottom of the bottle. Turn the bottle, not the cork, easing the cork slowly out. There should be a quiet ‘phut’ rather than spraying it all over the lounge carpet like a Formula 1 racing driver (I’ve always thought that was such a waste).
It’s a complete myth that a silver spoon in the neck of your sparkling wine somehow preserves the bubbles. If you have leftover sparkling wine (strange concept, I know) invest in a simple Champagne stopper, that clips onto the top keeping the pressure in. I have the Kloveo Champagne stopper that I picked up from Amazon a while back for around £20.
Recommendations
Nyetimber Rosé NV – Waitrose £44.99, currently on offer at £33.99
I’m a huge fan of Laurent Perrier Rosé and this gorgeous wine tastes just as delightful. Rich with red berry flavours and aromas, crisp and refreshing, stock up at this price.
Cuvée Royale Brut Crèmant de Limoux NV – Waitrose £13.99, currently on offer at £9.99
Rich, dry and biscuity wine, with citrus notes from South West France made with Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir.
Langlois Chateau ‘L’Extra par Langlois’ Crèmant de Loire Brut – Majestic £15 per bottle, £12 in mixed 6
A beautiful, fresh and aromatic wine made with Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. Excellent value, tasting way above its price point. Refreshing with citrus and toasty flavour. (And this Chateau happens to be owned by Champagne House Bollinger).
Castle Faglia Franciacorta DOCG Grand Brut – Majestic £23 per bottle, £19 in mixed 6
The wildcard. A family run operation, but a world class wine. Aged in bottle for 2 years helping it taste rich and toasty. Made with 100% locally grown Chardonnay.
Have a a fabulous Christmas and a sparkling New Year.
Cin cin et salute a tutti,
Ange
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