The World in a Glass
WORDS: Ange Seddon
For some, the sunshine heralds the arrival of rosé season, but for me, rosé is for all seasons. It has been looked down upon as a less than serious wine by the self-appointed wine snobs of the world. Those people are being shortsighted; they are missing out on a category of wine that is both versatile and truly delightful. To be fair, a while ago it was considered a substandard drink because a majority was poorly produced, made in bulk for the mass market, too sweet, and quite honestly not worth drinking. Rosé has come a long way since then, sparking a whole new appreciation of the previously maligned style. Jancis Robinson called it ‘The redemption of rosé’. Thanks to better wine making processes and innovative vignerons making dryer and more structured styles, along with an awful lot of clever marketing especially with lifestyle brands such as Whispering Angel and Miraval, has meant that rosé wine is now one of the fastest growing categories in the wine world. While the glamour of celebrity brands with the fancy labels and bottles would not automatically negate quality, there are some decidedly average examples, but there are also some stunners.
Rosés can now be considered as wine that has substance and style. The spectrum of rosés runs from sweet and cloying to crisp and refreshing and light to well structured wines with great depth, bringing joy to the casual imbibers and serious enthusiasts alike.
Rosé Myths Debunked
Rosé is just an incomplete red wine.
Quality rosés are crafted through specific techniques, not a by-product or an afterthought. They have their own beautiful profiles.
All darker rosés are sweeter.
This is a common misconception due mostly to the wines such as Mateus Rosé and White Zinfandel (this one is my aunt's favourite; I stress it is theirs, NOT mine!) The colour comes from its contact with the black grape skins used before or during fermentation. The longer the contact, the darker the wine.
So, let us not judge a rosé by the depth of colour.
A Bit of Science
Rosé can be made in several ways.
Blending – mixing a red wine with a white wine. This is a practice used outside of Europe; it is not allowed by law in many European countries but is allowed in the process of making rosé champagne. A notable exception to the rule.
Direct pressing – when the black grapes are crushed and pressed in wine production, this extracts a little colour, but care is taken not to extract too much tannin from the skins. This method often produces the most delicately coloured rosé wines.
Short Maceration – black grapes are crushed and allowed to macerate in the juice to extract flavour and colour, the duration will depend how much colour and tannin the wine maker wants to extract.
Most rosés are meant to be drunk young, though a few have the ability to develop when aged in bottle. Tavel from the Southern Rhône in France is the sort of dark structured rosé that is spicy, tannic, and more intense, developing greater complexity as it ages. It is also the perfect rosé to win over the red wine drinkers. It has rich, red fruit flavours with spicy notes. Other rosés including Bandol rosé from Provence and Navarra rosé from Spain. All are delicious, deeper coloured wines that are dry and well worth trying. But my favourite of the darker hued rosés is Sancerre rosé, from the Loire Valley in France. White Sancerre is made with Sauvignon Blanc, but this is made with 100% Pinot Noir, and it's just delightful.
Recommendations
It’s no secret that I am a fan of the wines of Chateau d’Esclans. A while ago I attended a wine tasting and got to sample some of their best wines. You can read my thoughts in the article ‘Chateau d’Esclans rosé masterclass’.
Rock Angel – Chateau d’Esclans
I’m bypassing the household name that is Whispering Angel and going for its edgier big sister, Rock Angel. Think of it as Whispering Angel in a leather jacket. Made from grapes from older vines 100 metres above sea level in rocky soils (hence the name) it is a step up. Beautiful strawberry and redcurrant aromas, with a touch of floral and a hint of spice. Thanks to the partial oak ageing, this wine has a creamy feel yet with a stony minerality. Sounds a strange mix, but trust me, it works. It has a firm acidity with a long and silky finish.
The classic Provence grapes of grenache, vermentino, cinsault and syrah are used, but this is very much an elevated classic. It is an entry-level oaked rosé with a premium story, worth the extra.
Available from Waitrose at £27 and Majestic at £27 (in a mix six)
Chapel Down English Rosé
My daughter bought a bottle of this when we went for dinner the other night. She is a fan of all things Chapel Down wines and wanted us to give this one a go.
It was delightful, pure strawberries and cream in aromas and taste. Stock up for Wimbledon. You can thank me later.
Available from Waitrose at £15
Porte Noire Rosé
Despite my deriding of celebrity endorsed wine, I am not going to lie, I was won over by Mr Elba’s delightful eyes…I mean rosé.
Made from some of the classic Provence rosé grapes, cinsault, grenache, rollé (vermentino) the process of cold maceration, gently pressing and aged on the fine lees (the dead yeast cells) imparting a more rounded creamy texture. The flavours I got were of white peach and a floral hint with a bright citrus zest. A grown-up rosé that feels, looks and tastes incredibly elegant and special.
Available direct from portenoire.co.uk at £28.80
Cin cin et salute a tutti,
Ange
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